The Jetpacker

Final day in Berlin. Final day of 2009. We had full intentions to go out with a bang. We just didn’t expect the fireworks to start so early in the morning.

Snow continued to fall overnight, and by the time we stepped outside, everything was covered in a layer of snow so fresh and inviting, we reverted back to childish stomping, snowball-throwing, snow-angel making and face-planting all over again.

The locals probably don’t see two 20-somethings exhibit such behavior in front of a high-class establishment like KaDeWe too often. But hey, at least we didn’t act the same inside.

We couldn’t, or else we would’ve been kicked out before breaking something ridiculously expensive. Like a €4,500 bottle of wine.

That’s what KaDeWe is known for. Often called the Harrod’s of Germany, Kaufhaus des Westens is the second largest department store in Europe. Over 40,000 people visit daily, and I bet most of ‘em head right upstairs to the dizzying food hall, which offer everything from the unusual to the uber-expensive.

About the only thing we could afford was a cup of hot chocolate at a snack bar next to a life-size bell sculpted from chocolate.

I was often told not to touch anything when I was kid. Back then I didn’t listen. This time I did. It only took 20 years for the advice to stick.

The fear of accidentally knocking over a €600 can of caviar or a jar of rare chocolates or a 100-year old bottle of wine was too overwhelming to stay in KaDeWe for long.

Think I would make a good Santa?

Just down the street on Ku’Damm, one of Berlin’s most popular shopping avenues, is a poignant sculpture that was created in 1987 to symbolize the division of Germany by the Berlin Wall. Called simply Berlin, the sculpture features two links in a broken chain struggling to hold on to each other like lovers being torn apart.

Beyond the sculpture is another heartbreaking reminder of Germany’s dark history: the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church.

Originally constructed in the 1890s, the church was severely damaged in an air raid during World War II. Instead of rebuilding, it was decided that the church would remain in its disfigured state as a reminder of the horrors of war.

The ground level has been converted into a memorial hall that charts the history and destruction of the church, and presents artifacts that survived the bombing such as a damaged statue of Christ.

A new church consisting of four buildings was constructed next to the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church 20 years after the original became unusable. Nicknamed “The Lipstick and Powder Compact,” the 175-foot high tower features over 21,000 stained glass blocks.

We had to lighten things up after that, so we grabbed a seat at a food stall in the Christmas Market… and went a little crazy.

In our defense, this was going to be our last opportunity to indulge in delicious German holiday food, so we had to stock up like a bear about to go into hibernation.

After two sausages, one currywurst and three orders of sliced potatoes pan-fried in bacon fat, it was time to head back to the hotel for a nap.

But it wasn’t easy to sleep. The constant sound of fireworks rumbling down the street and shaking the windows was too distracting.

Instead, we got caught up watching “Ninja Warrior” while packing our bags (our flight was at 7a.m. the next morning). We’ve seen humans put on unimaginable displays of athleticism, but “Ninja Warrior” takes it to a new level.

“Ninja Warrior” is a Japanese game show similar to “Wipeout” and “American Gladiators” where ridiculously strong and agile guys attempt to survive the most difficult and physically demanding obstacle course we’ve ever seen. Perhaps we’re late to the party, but you’ve gotta see this…

Maybe it was the Asian theme, or maybe it was the sad realization that we’ll never be accomplish any of those physical challenges, but we eventually resigned ourselves to eating Chinese food for dinner.

Too bad it was actually the worst meal of the trip. Maybe the phrase “saving the worst for last” will become vogue now.

From there we braved the dangerous walk to Brandenburg Gate for New Year’s celebrations, which you can read about here.

The walk back to the hotel wasn’t as dangerous, but it was just as noisy.

There was a little food shack right around the corner from the hotel that we passed every day but never visited. I couldn’t leave without satiating my curious appetite… with another currywurst.

It made up for the crappy dinner; turns out it was the best currywurst I had on the whole trip (admittedly, my hunger by this point may have clouded my judgment).

The food selection on our one-week trip to Berlin may have been limited in scope, but the city made up for it.

Berlin is an interesting place. The city has been beaten and battered by two World Wars and the Cold War, and yet it has survived. Today, this big, bright, bold, beautiful city is on the cutting edge of art, architecture and technology, moving forward at lightning speed without forgetting or hiding its past. It’s an old city that feels young, a big city that feels small, a complex city that feels accessible.

In the end, we’re leaving with more questions than answers. But when you think about it, most cities don’t even ask its visitors to question. And that makes Berlin a place that cannot be forgotten.