I arrived in Singapore Sunday afternoon and called a cab to take me to my hotel. I have had horrendous luck with cabbies so far this trip, but I’ve heard the ones here at least won’t rip you off, so that’s a plus.

Unfortunately, there was — again — a mix-up with the hotels.

Instead of taking me to the Studio M Hotel on Nanson Road, I went to the M Hotel on Anson Road.  Easy to mix up, I understand, but at that point it was just comical.

Anyway, once we got everything sorted out, I made it to my hotel, which overlooks Robertson Quay and the Singapore River. This area is one of the most happening in all the city, with restaurants, bars, and clubs of all types waiting for the well-to-do.

I figured I’d be spending more than a few nights in this area, so I was excited to go explore during the days.

I started with dinner at a local Italian place.  The orrecchiete with sausage was quite good, and S$16 (about US $12) was a pretty good price for dinner, especially in this area.

The next morning I awoke to realize that my bed was far too comfortable to leave just quite yet. I didn’t start the day until around 11am, and even then I was out of it for most of the day. I’d normally blame the flight and jet lag, but it’s only an hour’s trip from KL, with no time zone change.

I ended up walking around the quays and dipping into some of the malls in the area. Clearly, I was not going to get away with being cheap here.

Everything you hear about shopping and eating being the national sports of Singapore are true. Everyone walks around in at least a polo shirt and jeans – image is everything.

I ended the night at a Thai place on Boat Quay, just downriver from my hotel, that was disappointing and expensive.

From walking up and down Boat Quay, I got the sense it was a bit overpriced and trading more on its name than anything else. I felt bad about not doing anything of importance the second day, and vowed to venture out into the city on day 3.

Day 3: In Which Steve Goes to Chinatown in Search of Hainanese Chicken Rice, and Comes Back S$850 Poorer

Tuesday morning started with me reading an email from Jackie asking me to find a place called Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice in Chinatown. I hopped a cab and headed down to the wonderfully named Food Street, home of stalls hawking every type of Eastern food imaginable.

I wandered for a bit, passing joke T-shirt shops and Indonesian food stalls, stopping only to buy a nice dress shirt for S$23, when an elderly man beckoned to me and asked me to see something. I probably should have just ignored him, but curiosity got the better of me.

It turns out the man was Steven Ng, one of the proprietors of Bobby Tan Tailors, specializing in custom-fit suits.

Now, I’ve been meaning to get a suit for months, but could never muster the courage to go, since I don’t know much about them. Steven walked me through the process and gave me a pretty good deal – a jacket, shirt, and pants (all custom-made) for S$770 (around US $513.)

I selected a dark gray suit with a burgundy shirt, and Steven and his partner, the aforementioned Bobby Tan, took my measurements and told me to come back on Friday. Since I had no plans for Friday yet, this was perfect.

After I left the tailors, I stopped into Sawasdee Thai, a decent-sized stall that advertises themselves as “the best Thai food in Chinatown.”

Although I couldn’t compare it to anything else in the area, they were quite good, and cheap. A decent plate of paht si eu (long flat noodles, beef, and vegetables) was only S$12.

I also grabbed some honey mango/passion fruit juice from a vendor for S$3.50 that really hit the spot. He sliced up the mango, blended it with ice, then stirred the passion fruit seeds into the mix. Simple, but satisfying.

I wandered a bit more, then stopped into a local department store, called CK. My mother and sister, both world-class bargain hunters, would have been in heaven here.

I picked up two nice shirts, a gray button-down and a powder-blue polo, and some black slacks, which I had been needing, for S$50, and it was only sheer force of will that I didn’t keep going. After all that, I decided to head back before I did any more damage.

I came back to a welcome surprise – a message from Marie and Beth, the two British travelers I had met in Kuala Lumpur.  They were leaving for Australia in the morning, but wanted to hang out before they left.

We met up at Clarke Quay, a 5-minute walk from my hotel, and headed to Mulligan’s Irish pub to start the night. I had a solid Irish stew, but the girls had already eaten, so they stuck to drinks.

After that, we found a bar called The Clinic, which was medical-themed. We sat in our wheelchairs and drank our neon-green cocktails through an IV drip (S$50 for one bag, about 7 shots’ worth).

I cannot stress how fun this was. Giving wheelchairs to people who have been drinking is almost always a bad idea, but it’s an absolute blast.

After the check-up, we made our third and final stop of the evening, The Pump Room microbrewery. The girls had wine, and I had a tasty wheat ale (S$11 and $12, respectively.)  They had a decent live cover band, including a drag queen belting out “Hit Me With Your Best Shot,” with Marie was thrilled over.

They then turned into a sort of live karaoke, inviting patrons to come up and sing. None of us took them up, but one guy turned in an impressive Bon Jovi.

While the band took a break, they switched to dance music, and it was nice to get out on the floor and have some fun. Eventually, though, it got late, and Marie and Beth had to head back to their hostel to nap/catch the airport bus. We said our goodbyes, with a promise to keep in touch, and I headed back, reflecting on a quite good day.

The next day would be a mostly catch-up day, as I hadn’t written anything yet. I started with lunch at Brasserie Wolf, another of the myriad restaurants in Robertson Quay.

A French establishment, Brasserie Wolf specializes in high-quality cuisine for high-quality prices. However, their lunch sets are quite reasonably priced. A choice of appetizer and entrée sets you back only S$24, with a dessert for a few dollars more.

I wasn’t adventurous enough to try the snails or foie gras, so I settled for the soup of the day, with lamb as the main course and chocolate cake a la mode as dessert. The meal was delectable – you could have had a meal on the free bread and soup by itself, the lamb was perfectly cooked, and the melt-in-your-mouth cake was a solid finish.

The only complaint was that when I asked for water, they brought Evian, which added another S$12 to the meal. If I had realized they were going to do that at the beginning, I would have just ordered a beer or a glass of wine. Still, the meal was a great way to get gourmet French food at a decidedly non-gourmet price.

So far during my time in Singapore, the greatest thing that sticks out about the city is its inherent multiculturalism.

Influences from all over the world mesh seamlessly, and Singapore’s history as an international shipping and trading post is evident. Nobody ever questions if you’re a local, since you simply can’t tell.

In addition, compared to KL, Singapore is a cakewalk to get around. Taxis are plentiful and fair (a welcome change), and the subway and bus system is well-connected and efficient.

Still, I don’t feel like I’ve done anything really cultural. I’ve shopped, eaten, and drank, all things I can do back home.

In the second half of the trip, I’m going to explore more and branch out past the Quays. In addition, for Monday, I’ve decided to set a challenge for myself – have as much fun as I can while spending as little as possible. In a bastion of pure capitalism like Singapore, it should be a tough challenge but a fun one.

This may come as a surprise, but Las Vegas is more than just a four mile strip of flashy hotels and loud casinos.  It’s actually a sprawling metropolis of 2 million people that spans over 4,000 square miles, which means there’s a lot more to do than watch a drunk guy try to find his missing shoe (even though that is highly entertaining).  Here’s some fun stuff we did in Vegas over Memorial Weekend to escape the crowds…

Casinos Off The Strip

Our gambling budget is so small that we could only play a few hands of blackjack at nearly any casino on The Strip.  But at the casinos a few miles away, your money goes further.  Table minimums are lower and casinos like Eastside Cannery, a classy ’50′s inspired hotel with color-changing exterior, and the elegantly designed Red Rock Resort, are replete with penny and nickel slots.

Eastside Cannery

The only problem with off The Strip hotels is the lack of free entertainment (and in a city like Vegas where everything costs four times more than it should, free entertainment is the only thing preventing you from betting your mortgage at the tables).  One of the few hotels that offers a free show is Sam’s Town, a hotel way the hell out in BFE.

Their show is called Sunset Stampede, an eight-minute tour of the Western pioneer as told through water theatrics, lasers, lights and animation.  It’s no Bellagio fountains, but it’s better than buying cap guns and trying to reenact life in the Old West with your friends.

The first half of the show is cool, depicting cowboys and Indians and dessert animals looking way more colorful and futuristic than they do in real life.  Suddenly the tune changes and the show morphs into an oddly uncomfortable display of pro-America propaganda, complete with country songs and images of military might.  The only thing lacking was a guest appearance by Sarah Palin dressed in a civil war reenactment costume.

Rocket Fizz

In a strip mall at the edge of Vegas (literally, it’s nothing but desert a few blocks away), there’s a cool shop called Rocket Fizz, where you can find hundreds of varieties of soda and candy, some of which you probably haven’t seen since you last bought something from the ice cream man (side note: in my neighborhood, the ice cream man was arrested for trying to sell drugs to kids).

Perhaps my favorite word in the entire English language is “free,” and Rocket Fizz offers free soda tastings on Saturday.  After trying this lightly carbonated peach soda that tasted exactly like a real peach (science has come so far), I asked a clerk for the weirdest soda.

He gave me Cola Azteca, a dark soda that contains coffee, chocolate, cinnamon and cayenne pepper.  Sounds like a deadly combination, but it was surprisingly good, although I’m not used to heat lingering in my mouth after a swig of soda.

But my greatest find was something that got me in trouble when I was a kid.  It’s absolutely the most un-politically correct candy ever made and I can’t believe they still make this stuff…

Bubble gum cigarettes.

They even come in a box that looks like a real pack of cigarettes.  But here’s the best part: pretend to smoke the cigarette and white smoke shoots out.

It’s totally wrong and sends a terrible message to kids, but I’m not gonna lie, it looks effin’ sweet.

Pinball Hall Of Fame

I grew up sucking at video games, but I wish I grew up twenty years prior so I could have sucked at pinball instead.

A couple miles off The Strip in an unassuming warehouse is 10,000 square feet of flashing lights and loud sounds and a helluva lot of fun… except it’s way cheaper than a slot machine.  $10 can last an hour at the Pinball Hall of Fame.

Take a nostalgic trip back in time and play one of 152 pinball machines and 54 arcade games, some of which date back to the ’50′s.

While I gradually got worse at a pinball game called Space Shuttle, Jackie was kicking ass at Dunk N’ Alien, a ski ball game where you try to hit a moving target in order to dunk an alien that mocks competitors.

Pawn Stars

If you’ve ever seen the History Channel show Pawn Stars, you know that the Gold & Silver Pawn Shop has become another Vegas landmark.  But once you see the place, it’s kind of a let down.

The store is smaller than it looks on TV, the guys on the show only work a few hours on weekdays, and everything is terribly overpriced.  I thought we’d see a lot of the interesting antiques they buy on the show, but it’s mainly jewelry for sale.  And the thought of wearing someone else’s jewelry, especially knowing they pawned it to likely pay for medical bills or something, is disturbing.

There were some motorcycles at the back and a few old slot machines on the counter, but not enough to warrant braving the huge crowds that pack into this small place to buy overpriced souvenirs.

Red Rock Canyon

By far the coolest excursion, and the one we underestimated the most, was the drive thirty minutes outside of Vegas to Red Rock Canyon.

You can see Red Rock Canyon way out in the distance from most of the hotels — it sticks out like a swollen red sore thumb — and it doesn’t appear as if it would be that interesting.

But after paying $7 to take the 13-mile scenic drive and stopping at various points to walk around, this prehistoric playground for hikers and rock-climbers took on an extraordinarily impressive, even mysterious, life.

There’s a strange air about the giant pile of red sandstone rocks in the canyon.  Not in a bad way.  It’s easy to sense why the Native Americans considered it a spiritual place.

We didn’t bring appropriate clothing to go hiking, nor do we have the stamina to challenge the canyon — it’s far easier walking down than climbing back up — so we didn’t do much exploring.

But we could have easily spent the entire day in the canyon… if we didn’t sunburn easily… and get winded after climbing up a small hill… and didn’t fear being attacked by raving mad jackrabbit.  Perhaps this gift shop item would help…

If Beverly Hills and Paris mated, Recoleta would be their unfairly handsome and enviously wealthy child.  The popular district of Recoleta is one of the most expensive in Buenos Aires; it’s characterized by French-style architecture and city planning — elaborate mansions, well-manicured plazas, squares highlighted by statues — and renowned for its up-scale and exclusive restaurants, shops and hotels.

Here are the highlights…

La Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta is all about wealth and status… even in death.  Only the rich and famous can afford to be buried in one of the most exclusive cemeteries in the world, turning Recoleta Cemetery into the final home of many of Argentina’s most prominent writers, artists, military heroes and politicians, including Evita and a host of former presidents.  The streets of Recoleta serve as a competition to construct larger and more eye-catching mansions and the cemetery is no different; each mausoleum is bigger, bolder and more braggadocious than the one prior, with dramatic stained glass windows, domes, plaques and statues vying for attention.

Avenida Alvear

There is more opulence on this stretch of 7 blocks than in the whole of many other countries.  Here, haute couture clothing shops are squished between magnificently designed mansions that evoke images of turn-of-the-century France.  Famous sights include the Duhau Palace (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Hotel), Anchorena Palace (the Apostolic Nunciature to the Pope in Argentina), Hume House (the Secretariat of Culture) and the 5-star Alvear Palace Hotel.  The eastern end of the avenue ends at Plazoleta Carlos Pellegrini, a small park dedicated to the former president of Argetina, surrounded by two belle epoque palaces that are now embassies: Ortiz Basualdo Palace (French Embassy) and Pereda Palace (Brazilian Embassy).

Recoleta Cultural Center

Three-hundred years ago, this building was a Franciscan church and it was white.  Today it’s an exhibition hall and it’s pink.  The exterior is a pretty good indicator of what you’ll find inside: modern art presentations, experimental theater, political cartoon displays, concerts, classes, festivals, and even a kid’s science museum where it’s forbidden NOT to touch the exhibits.  It’s free to walk around this impressive network of rooms and courtyards, but the rotating exhibits and the kid’s museum will cost a few pesos.  You can play a game of human chess on the painted chess board on the veranda or grab a culturally insignificant lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe situated right behind the cultural center.

National Library of the Argentine Republic

Just as every attractive celebrity has a minor flaw that prevents them from being perfect, so too does Recoleta… and it’s called the National Library.  This bland, boring, brutalist construction almost seems like a mistake in such a refined neighborhood.  But just like a woman reading “He’s Just Not That Into You,” what she lacks in looks she makes up for in substance.  If you can read Spanish, you’ll revel in library’s collection of 2 million-plus works.  If you can’t read Spanish, you’ll enjoy the view of Recoleta from the reading room 21 floors above ground… if you can get in (security is tight so you need to have an explanation for why you’re visiting).

Buenos Aires Design Center

This diminutive mall is devoted entirely to interior design with cutting edge creations at Ikea prices.  Stores feature high-quality products designed by up-and-coming interior designers using local supplies.

Patio Bullrich

This mall serves as a reminder that not everything in Buenos Aires is cheap.  Patio Bullrich features 80 up-scale name-brand stores that are so expensive, they’re usually empty.  Instead, people congregate in the food court, one of the only affordable (though still pricey) things in the mall.  The real highlight is the classical architecture; this former livestock auction house retains its original glass dome, animal head sculptures, and a great clock.  Considered the most exclusive mall in the city, this is the place to see and be seen… but look and don’t touch anything.

Confiteria La Biela

Opened in 1850, this cafe across from the Recoleta Cemetery is one of the most important eateries in the city and a historical landmark.  The waitlist for a table is usually filled with the names of anybody who’s anybody in the city, and usually they take up the sidewalk seats where people-watching is like a fashion runway.  But the wait is worth it for affordable meals, including breakfast, which starts at 7 a.m.  Waiting in the heat isn’t a problem thanks to a 150-foot wide rubber tree called Gran Gomero that shades the patio.

National Museum of Fine Arts (MNBA)

Portenos have an unusual predisposition for pink buildings and this is yet another example.  The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is housed in a building that served as a drainage pumping station in the 19th century.  Today it showcases works from Van Gogh, Monet, Rodin and Renoir, as well as art from the pre-Renaissance period.  It also hosts the largest collection of 19th and 20th century Argentine artwork in the world.

Palais de Glace

Constructed in 1911, the Palais de Glace originally housed the first ice skating rink in the country.  Just 10 years later it was turned into a tango ballroom.  Since then it has become a national historic monument that hosts art exhibitions and occasional tango events.

Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pilar

Dating back to 1732, this blindingly white church is the second oldest house of worship in the city and one of the best examples of colonial architecture in Buenos Aires.  Entrance to the church is free but the small religious art museum housed in the original and well-preserved convent will cost a few pesos.

National Museum of Decorative Art

Over 4,000 decorative objects are packed into every room in this lavish mansion.  For about $2 US, visitors can get a temporary taste of the good life by walking through bedrooms, ballrooms and even servant’s chambers to witness finely detailed furniture, silverware, sculptures, tapestries and paintings from the early 20th century.

Floralis Generica

We’re not sure what the national flower of Argentina is, but it should be this giant metal flower.  The 75-foot Floralis Generica, situated in United Nations Plaza, adjacent to the imposing University of Buenos Aires Faculty of Law building, is a photo-op at any time, but it’s best at dawn and dusk when the flower slowly opens and closes.

Buenos Aires is a sprawling city of 13 million people crammed into 48 districts.  With numbers that large, a list of things to see and do could easily get overwhelming.  So to make your task less daunting, we’ve narrowed it down to 10 things every tourist should do in Buenos Aires.

10.  Walk Caminito street.

The seedy barrio of La Boca is home to Caminito street, a colorful oasis of artists, tango dancers and over-priced souvenirs.  The histrionic antics of people trying to lure you into their stalls and restaurants make this the most touristy area in Buenos Aires.  However, the brightly colored corrugated steel houses of early Italian immigrants (called conventillos) provide some of the most unique and picturesque architecture in the city.  The street is lined with paintings and sculptures, and there’s even a nearby wax museum (at 1261 Del Valle Iberlucea) that depicts scenes from colonial times to present (most likely devoid of the “tattooed gangsters robbing tourist” scene).

9.  Relax in the parks of Palermo.

Palermo is the largest barrio in Buenos Aires, yet despite its size it is considered the most exclusive neighborhood.  Much of Palermo is occupied by a vast system of lush green parks and gardens replete with shady picnic areas, walking trails, lakes and colorful foliage.  The complex is made up of the Botanical Gardens, Japanese Gardens, Zoological Gardens, Rose Gardens and the Parque Tres de Febrero (called the Palermo Woods) and also includes major attractions such as the world-famous polo grounds, a horse racing track, the Galileo Galilei Planetarium and a plethora of monuments.

8.  Shop for inexpensive leather.

Thanks to a fortuitous exchange rate (currently 3.8 pesos to 1 American dollar) and a carnivorous culture that supplies an abundance of cow carcass, leather goods like saddles, belts, boots and even cup holders are ridiculously inexpensive.  Custom-made leather jackets can be purchased for as low as $100 on popular shopping streets like Calle Florida, Avenida Santa Fe and Avenida Corrientes.

7.  Cross the Bridge of Woman.

The Puente de la Mujer is a pedestrian footbridge that spans the third dock in Puerto Madero.  This barrio is the only neighborhood in the world where all the streets are named after important women in Argentine history, and the Bridge of Woman continues that theme.  The bridge, an abstract representation of a couple dancing the tango, doesn’t provide much of a romantic view (unless you consider old cranes and brick buildings with Hooters restaurants and trash bobbing atop muddy waters romantic).  Adjacent to the bridge is the Frigate Sarmiento, a retired Navy vessel that circumnavigated the globe six times; it’s now a ship museum.

6.  Buy something old at the San Telmo antiques fair.

Even if you’re not a decrepit, silver-haired woman looking to complete her thimble collection, you’re bound to find something rusty to take home at the San Telmo antiques fair.  Every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Plaza Dorrego packs in hundreds of stalls with vendors selling everything from inaccurate old maps to used military uniforms to offensive negro dolls to jewelry and watches that Grandpa Rigor Mortis doesn’t need anymore.  The entire street of Defensa, which runs through Plaza Dorrego, is also closed down on Sunday and lined with stands selling antiques, handmade jewelry, original paintings, retro clothing, and mate cups with fresh mate (a popular South American beverage).

5.  Check out the Floralis Generica.

The Floralis Generica, which may or may not translate to “the big metal flower,” is a 75-foot tall steel and aluminum sculpture of a flower located in United Nations Plaza.  The flower remains open during the day but wilts shut at sundown.  United Nations Plaza, adjacent to the University of Law building, is one of the few places in Buenos Aires you don’t have to worry about stepping in dog poop — dogs are off-limits.

4.  Visit Evita’s grave at the Recoleta Cemetery.

The Recoleta Cemetery is like a microcosm of Buenos Aires: a gridded layout that’s easy to navigate, structures designed in the Art Nouveau style, and plenty of stray animals.  You won’t find any hedge stones in this cemetery; instead, you’ll find opulent mausoleums larger than my apartment, adorned with religious statues and stained glass windows.  Many famous porteños are buried here, but the only person you’ll remember from your high school history books is Eva Peron, the controversial First Lady of Argentina from 1946-1951.  Even though she’s buried 27-feet below ground in a concrete tomb capable of withstanding a nuclear attack, we’re pretty sure she rolled over when Madonna played her in “Evita”.

3.  Eat a steak in a parrilla.

Like any major city, Buenos Aires is a melting pot of gastronomy with basically every genre of food available.  But the ubiquitous parrilla (Spanish for barbeque) is by far the most popular dining option.  Argentina’s well-maintained grass-fed cows produce some of the most tender, moist and juicy cuts of beef in the world.  And with so much meat available, high-quality steaks and huge portions (we’re talking 2-pound slabs of beef) are incredibly cheap.

2.  Dance the tango.

Buenos Aires is the birthplace of tango.  You can’t walk a block without seeing a tango hall, tango workshop center, tango music store or tribute to Carlos Gardel, “The King of Tango.”  This seductive dance form is a hallmark of Argentine culture, one that you must partake in to truly experience the porteño lifestyle.  Despite its current reputation as a classy dance, the tango has rather dubious origins.  A hundred years ago, brothels were like the DMV where men had to wait hours before a woman became available; so men started to dance with each other to pass the time, hence tango was conceived (hopefully the only thing conceived in the brothel).

1.  Walk historic Avenida de Mayo.

The best place to understand and appreciate Buenos Aires is on Avenida de Mayo.  The two-mile stretch between Plaza del Congreso and Plaza de Mayo features most of the city’s important historical and architectural attractions.  On one end is Congreso, the Argentine National Congress building that looks strikingly similar to The White House, and on the other end is Casa Rosada, the presidential headquarters or “Pink House” as it is commonly called because the facade was originally painted with cow’s blood that dried and turned pink.

A walk along Avenida de Mayo will also take you to the striking neoclassical Casa de Cultura, the Cabildo (the last remaining public building dating back to colonial times), the Metropolitan Cathedral (a church containing the remains of General Jose de San Martin, “The Father Of The Nation”), Cafe Tortoni (the most famous cafe in the city), and Palacio Barolo (designed to symbolize Dante’s “Divine Comedy” and topped with a lighthouse that represents salvation).  Half way through you’ll cross Avenida 9 de Julio, the largest avenue in the world, featuring a 220-foot tall Obelisk.

Tours and museums are available in many of these buildings, but plan your schedule around the march of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo at 3:30 p.m. every Thursday.  The mothers continue to march in honor of the 30,000+ children who were kidnapped during Argentina’s Dirty War from 1976-1983, many of who still clutch pictures of their own missing children in the hope that they will one day return.

When was the last time you saw a fashion show at the mall?  Well, at the Galeries Lafayette in Paris, there’s one every day.

Paris is known for high fashion, and the Galeries Lafayette might be the epicenter.  If not the epicenter, it’s in prime time aftershock territory — the waves of the fashion community crash here.

Galeries Lafayette is the largest department store in Europe.  It’s 10 levels of really expensive clothing.  Much like being in art in a museum, you’ll probably be too nervous to touch anything.

That’s okay because there’s other stuff to look at, like the 100-year old stained glass dome ceiling.

During Christmas, Galeries Lafayette boasts the largest indoor Christmas tree of any department store in the world at 60-feet tall.

The mall was suffocatingly packed for the Christmas rush when we were there, so we left not long after arriving.  As soon as we stepped outside, we heard someone yell, “It’s snowing!”  Snow?  Raining from the sky!?  The excitement was so overwhelming that the sounds of the crowd faded out and all I could hear was The Bangles’ “Heaven Is A Place On Earth”.

But this was no heaven.  I quickly pulled my tongue back into my mouth when we discovered that the snow was nothing more than foam shooting out of a machine on the rooftop.  Curse you, Galeries Lafayette, for destroying my hopes and dreams.

Visit their site for hours, store directory and fashion show times.