The Jetpacker

Prague Castle is the largest ancient castle in the world.  Since the 9th century, it has been home to kings, emperors and presidents.  Now tourists can wander this fortified town and experience Czech history first hand.  Here’s what to see in Prague Castle…

Passing through the Castle Gates sets the tone for a trip back into the tumultuous past of the Czech Republic (formerly Czechoslovakia).  The gate displays statues of the Fighting Giants, with one man about to shank some guy prison style, the other man about to bludgeon some poor shmuck Sammy Sosa style.

Matthias Gateway, built in 1614, leads into the main courtyard where there’s a fountain and… well, that’s about it.  We did catch people surveying the top bank of windows in hopes that the President might be taking a coffee break to stare out the window.

The Picture Gallery of Prague Castle is a small museum that would display many more paintings had the Swedes not looted most of Rudolph II’s collection in 1648.

The most exciting site in Prague Castle is also its largest and most famous: St. Vitus Cathedral.  Not only is this the biggest and most well-regarded church in the country, it’s also one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in the world.  The bronze doors, twin spires, flying buttresses, intricate statuary, stained glass windows, soaring gargoyles, tall portals, the massive rose window, the mosaic of The Last Judgment above the Golden Portal — the exterior is remarkable.  It’s easy to grasp the immense scale of the cathedral when standing in the courtyard, looking at it tower over the castle walls.

The richly decorated interior features the colorful St. Wenceslas Chapel (unfortunately off-limits to the public, but you can look in from the doorway), the tomb of St. John of Nepomuk (the most famous saint of Czech origin), the Royal Crypt, St. Vitus’ remains, and an 18th century organ.  The Czech Crown Jewels are also kept in a vault in the cathedral, but they only go on display during special occasions.

Just outside the cathedral is a monolith dedicated to the memory of the victims of World War I.  This courtyard also provides entry to the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, which contains an extensive and exhausting museum dedicated to historical artifacts and essay-length writings about the history of the castle.

Across the way is St. George’s Basilica, a church that once competed with St. Vitus Cathedral.  Today it is part of the collection of the National Museum, hosting an exhibition of Bohemian Baroque artwork.

Golden Lane is a street worthy of the clichéd term “picturesque.”  It’s a small street lined with colorful shops and restaurants.  For centuries it was home to the lower-class citizens and craftsmen who lived in the castle complex.

On the far side of the castle is the Lobkowicz Palace, another part of the National Museum.  It displays historical Czech artifacts such as jewelry, sculptures and weapons.  Across the way is the second largest toy museum in the world.

Last stop is the frightening Dalibor Tower, a cold stone dungeon that continues to display torture devices.  The tower was named after the first person to be imprisoned here.  Dalibor was sentenced to death for harboring outlaws and was lowered into a dark cavern through a hole in the floor.  Legend has it he learned to play the violin while imprisoned, and citizens sympathetic to his plight came to listen to his music and threw food down the hole.

Just outside the Dalibor Tower is a great courtyard with a fantastic view of Prague.

Visiting the Prague Castle can easily take an entire day, especially if you see all the smaller sights like the Ludwig Wing (an assembly room for former governors), the Chamber of the Imperial Court, Old Diet (not a soda, rather an elaborate chamber for political and religious officials), Burgrave’s Palace (cultural exhibitions for children) and the Powder Tower (a former home to a famous bell maker, then laboratory for alchemists, then gunpowder storage facility and now an exhibit).  Just remember to wear comfortable shoes and prepare weeks beforehand on a Stairmaster for those steep, gravel paths.

Here’s the official site of the Prague Castle.